Most people judge a tee by the graphic. I judge it by the blank. The print is a layer on top — the blank is the actual garment, the thing your body lives in. Get it wrong and no graphic will save it.
Weight
Fabric weight sets the mood. Light jersey drapes and feels casual; heavyweight cotton (around 220–260 gsm) stands up on its own, holds a boxy shape, and ages with character. For this project I lean heavy — it suits Sài Gòn’s light and the kind of wear I want to see over time.
Neck and shoulder
The neckline ribbing and the shoulder drop quietly decide everything. A neck that’s a few millimetres too wide reads cheap; a shoulder seam that sits a touch past the shoulder reads intentional. These are small numbers with big consequences.
Proportion
Body length to width is the silhouette. A good blank looks composed standing still and moves well on a motorbike. I sketch the proportions before I ever think about a print.
Working notes
- Pre-wash everything — measure after, not before
- Test the blank plain for a week before adding anything
- Document the exact source and batch in the archive
None of this is about luxury. It’s about respect for the basic object — the same respect I see in the local brands here that get the fundamentals right before anything else.